Ashkelon's "At Barak" Restaurant Offers Divine Moroccan Delicacies
Translated & summarized from Ynet by baba
Reviewer Yonatan Cohen discovered "At Barak," a home-style restaurant in Ashkelon, drawn by a tip about a standout Moroccan dish. The restaurant, run by owner Barak, focuses on slow-cooked stews, with no printed menu and a fixed price for a meat dish, sides, and salads. Highlights included "Khraime" and a highly praised "Brain" stew, though some dishes like pea patties were overcooked. The establishment is celebrated for its simple, comforting, and authentic approach to food.
The story in 5 lines · by baba
- Ashkelon's "At Barak" restaurant offers authentic home-style stews, including a praised "Brain" dish.
- The restaurant lacks a printed menu, with customers choosing from simmering pots.
- A meat dish at "At Barak" costs 70 shekels and includes sides and salads.
- Owner Barak transitioned the establishment from a skewer bar to a stew-focused eatery.
- The reviewer noted some dishes were overcooked, but praised the overall comforting nature of the food.
Reviewer Yonatan Cohen was drawn to "At Barak," a humble, unlisted restaurant in Ashkelon, by a reader's tip about a "divine" Moroccan dish. The restaurant, which has been operating for about a year in the old city near the local market, has shifted its focus from a classic skewer bar to home-style stews, with the latter now dominating the menu. The owner, Barak, a seasoned professional from the city's event halls and kitchens, decided to venture out on his own.
"At Barak" operates without a printed menu. Customers select their meals by viewing the simmering pots at the counter. The pricing is set at 70 shekels for a meat dish, which includes a generous side dish, a selection of small salads for the table, and fresh bread. The reviewer highlights that each dish and cut of meat receives its own unique, appropriate sauce, avoiding a generic base.
Standout dishes included the "Khraime," described as succulent hake fillets in a deep, addictive red sauce, and "Tabkha b'Selek," a black stew with concentrated chard, known as Fekileh in other traditions, offering immense flavor complexity. The reviewer's highlight was the "Brain," a classic Moroccan dish with chickpeas in a red sauce, praised for its tenderness and rich flavor profile, making the journey worthwhile.
Other dishes sampled included "Mafrum," described as excellent, with large potato slices encasing well-seasoned meat, and pea patties, which, despite a good flavor profile, were noted as overcooked and dry. The reviewer also mentioned that even schnitzel lovers would find a satisfying option, with thick, juicy pieces and a crispy, golden exterior.
Ultimately, "At Barak" is presented not as a sophisticated establishment but as a pure demonstration of authentic food: simple, direct, and focused on providing warm, comforting meals that offer a sense of home. Despite minor flaws like the dry pea patties, the reviewer emphasizes the soul and heart poured into the cooking, making it a cherished culinary experience.
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