Ashkelon Restaurant Continues Legacy Despite Personal Tragedy

Chani Heinic, owner of "Hani's Victory" in Ashkelon, is keeping a 77-year-old culinary tradition alive, even after suffering immense personal loss. The restaurant, originally opened in 1949 by Yeshayahu and Surika Leibushur, with Heinic's parents Gabriella and Yosef Heinic joining later, was a nod to the victory in the War of Independence. After the founding generation retired and the original location closed in 2019, Heinic decided to continue the legacy, first from her home's courtyard and later opening a full restaurant in the old market complex.

Heinic's journey has been marked by profound tragedy, particularly following the October 7th Hamas attacks. Her brother, Reuven Heinic, was murdered on October 9th in a barn at Kibbutz Kisufim, where he had returned to care for the cows despite the risks. He was killed by terrorists who had been hiding there since the massacre. His body was only identified ten days later. Heinic herself lost her home to a rocket on the same day her brother was killed.

Despite these hardships, Heinic maintains a vibrant and welcoming atmosphere in her restaurant, which she runs with her partner Dafi Rotenberg. She serves a menu inspired by Romanian cuisine, including dishes like "Chorba de Puișoară" (Romanian sour vegetable soup with chicken meatballs), Romanian eggplant salad, and "ikra" (fish roe spread). A special "Reuven Schnitzel" is also offered in memory of her brother, who loved meat.

Heinic is keen to move beyond the "Romanian restaurant" label, finding it "unsexy" and associated with a niche Ashkenazi clientele. She aims for a broader appeal, noting that many of her customers now come from Tel Aviv. The restaurant, though one of Israel's oldest, avoids self-importance, offering a lively, homey, and joyful dining experience. Heinic and Rotenberg's success is also seen as a triumph over societal conventions and the profound grief of loss.