Israel Sees Surge in White Grape Varieties Beyond Traditional Choices

White grape harvests in Israel have seen a significant increase of 34% over the past seven years, with growth particularly notable in less common varieties. Data released by the Wine Council and the Ministry of Agriculture highlights a surge in grapes like Colombard, Chenin Blanc, and Roussanne. Notably, approximately 60,000 vines of Assyrtiko, a Greek varietal well-suited to Israel's climate, have been planted in the last three years.

Assyrtiko, originating from the small Greek island of Santorini, has gained international recognition for its unique characteristics. Initially known only to tourists visiting Santorini, it was not widely considered a 'great' wine. However, sommeliers began championing Assyrtiko for its high acidity, salinity, and distinct structure, which pairs well with diverse Mediterranean and Asian cuisines. Its exotic origin, volcanic soil, ancient vines, and challenging growing conditions in Santorini contribute to its compelling narrative.

The success of Assyrtiko is attributed to its ability to offer a complex profile, balancing sharpness and salinity with smoky minerality and aging potential. This versatility allows it to be enjoyed as a refreshing wine or a serious, age-worthy white. As demand outstripped Santorini's supply, plantings expanded across Greece and internationally, including Israel, where it is now being cultivated.

The article also touches upon the resurgence of other grape varieties, such as the Sicilian Grillo, historically used in Marsala wine but now being produced as a distinct dry white. Similarly, the Italian white grape Timorasso, once nearly extinct due to low yields and demanding cultivation, has been revived and is now a celebrated varietal in Piedmont, with efforts underway to manage its growth to preserve its identity.