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By מרב סריג
Culture15:51 · 1h ago

Israel's Culinary Scene Adapts Amidst War and Economic Challenges

Globes
Translated & summarized from Globes by baba
The story · English

The Israeli culinary landscape in the past year (September 2025-September 2026) has been shaped by ongoing conflict, economic uncertainty, and labor shortages, leading to a rise in smaller, more casual dining formats. Restaurateurs and chefs have favored "leaner" concepts like tavernas, grills, izakayas, and neighborhood eateries, with fewer seats, operating days, and staff, and less elaborate service. Ambitious, high-end "chef restaurants" have been fewer. The geographical map of dining has also shifted, with notable new openings appearing outside of Tel Aviv, in locations such as Haifa, Shfayim, Pardes Hanna, and the Golan Heights.

Despite the challenges, several establishments have stood out for their quality, innovation, and relevance. "Asa," a contemporary Japanese izakaya in Tel Aviv, led by chefs Guy Gamzo, Moshe Bodnik, and Itzik Hangal, has been praised for its energetic atmosphere and diverse menu featuring traditional Japanese grilling techniques. "Gastro Mechanico," a small, characterful European bistro in Tel Aviv by chef Pini Melotnik, offered a refreshing personal approach, though it recently announced its closure.

"Bo'u," a new venture by "George & John" alumni Chef Tomer Tal, Yair Bakier, and Steven Lubel, is highlighted as a standout "chef restaurant" that balances high-end execution with a relaxed, creative, and cosmopolitan vibe. The trend of "restaurant-delis" or hybrid concepts, combining dining with retail, has also strengthened, with places like "Lupa" offering prepared foods and gourmet ingredients.

Several long-standing institutions have closed, including "Manta Ray" after 27 years, "Oasis" after 14, and "Aria" after 13. Conversely, notable chefs like Rafi Cohen have returned to cooking, and the "Mahane Yehuda" group has expanded its kosher, accessible offerings in Jerusalem. New openings include "Grill 65" by Chef Hamudi Okla, focusing on grilled meats, and "Kote," a New York-style pizza bar by chefs Narkis Alfi and Shelly Graebler. "Lento" in Shfayim, by Chef Moti Sofer, is recognized as potentially the best Italian restaurant in Israel. The year also saw the return of Chef Yossi Hev to "Rose" in the Golan Heights, offering contemporary Galilean-Shami cuisine.

Read the original at Globes
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