Rivka and Celia's New Bistro 'Passage' Opens in Tel Aviv

After 40 years in the culinary business, the team behind the renowned "Rivka and Celia" establishment has opened "Passage," a new neighborhood bistro located in the Tzahala commercial center in Tel Aviv. Unlike their previous ventures, which evolved from cafes and patisseries into all-day dining restaurants, Passage was conceived from the outset as an evening dining destination, featuring a menu inspired by French, Italian, and Spanish cuisines, with a focus on wine and a convivial atmosphere.

The opening of Passage was prompted by necessity. Approximately a year ago, the group learned that their production facility was slated for demolition. Instead of simply finding a new location, the partners saw an opportunity for expansion. "We wanted to express more of the things we know and love to do," stated Amos Apple, one of Passage's owners and the son of the late Rivka Apple, who co-founded the original culinary institution with Silia Regev. They chose the Tzahala commercial center for its neighborhood feel and community spirit, reminiscent of Ramat Hasharon in its early days. Passage joins the group's other establishments: the original Rivka and Celia in Ramat Hasharon and its Tel Aviv branch in Tzahala Towers, which includes a deli, pizzeria, and event space.

Shi Montag, the group's culinary director for the past 26 years, designed Passage's menu. He views the bistro as a natural evolution of Rivka and Celia, maintaining the principle of neighborhood accessibility without compromising quality or professionalism. Passage adapts this formula for evening dining, translating it into a contemporary bistro experience. The menu offers well-executed bistro fare intended to nourish and comfort, such as "Chicken with Fteetim" (a type of pasta), meatballs with mashed potatoes, and mac and cheese, rather than complex chef's creations. The bistro aims to be an integral part of the neighborhood fabric, attracting locals and visitors alike.

Montag, who has been with the group since 2000, began in pastry and expanded into savory dishes, playing a key role in transforming Rivka and Celia into a full-fledged restaurant. He credits Rivka Apple with teaching him about Paris, modesty, precision, aesthetics, and food. One of the signature dishes, "Chicken with Fteetim," was initially met with resistance from Apple but quickly became a bestseller after Silia Regev praised it. Another notable dish is the "All Day Salad," a tribute to the "Orna and Ella" restaurant's iconic salad, featuring excellent vegetables, feta, croutons, and a creamy herb dressing. The dessert menu, expectedly strong given the establishment's pastry roots, includes "Rice au Lait" (rice pudding) with brown butter and crème anglaise, and various choux pastries.

The wine and alcohol menu was also elevated, with wine professional Omri Yitzhak curating a balanced and accessible selection. The service, initially experiencing typical opening-week challenges, has reportedly improved, becoming more relaxed and confident, making diners feel at home.