Grenache Grape's Global Journey: From Spain to France and Israel
The Grenache grape, known for its distinct climate-driven characteristics, is undergoing a global reevaluation, moving from traditional warm-climate expressions to cooler, higher-altitude terroirs. In warm regions, Grenache typically yields generous, ripe, sweet red wines with high alcohol, often described as jammy. Conversely, grapes grown in cooler, higher elevations produce lighter-colored wines with complex aromas of berries, flowers, and spices, and a lighter body with bright acidity and fine tannins.
Historically, Grenache's lighter color was seen as a drawback, leading winemakers to seek deeper hues through later harvests, extended maceration, or blending with darker varietals. However, a shift in perspective is emerging, with a renewed appreciation for the nuanced qualities of Grenache from cooler climates. This change is evident in regions like Spain's Gredos mountains, where ancient vines at over 1,000 meters produce wines comparable to Pinot Noir, emphasizing elegance and complexity over sheer power. Similarly, in Spain's Rioja Alta, old Grenache vines in higher, cooler areas are now yielding exceptional single-varietal wines.
In Southern France, the Rhône Valley, traditionally associated with powerful, ripe Grenache from Châteauneuf-du-Pape, is also seeing a rise in wines from higher vineyards in areas like Gigondas. These cooler sites offer Grenache with less sweetness, more acidity, and greater tension. This trend is partly driven by global warming, which encourages seeking out slower-ripening locations.
Israeli winemakers are also exploring this new direction. Boaz Mizrahi Adam of Libero winery and Avi Feldstein of Feldstein winery are among those cultivating Grenache in higher, cooler areas, such as Neve Ativ near the Hermon mountain and in Peki'in. They focus on allowing the grape to express itself, embracing lighter colors as a natural characteristic rather than a flaw, and employing gentler winemaking techniques like low-temperature fermentation and minimal mechanical intervention to achieve aromatic complexity and delicate texture.
