The Great Kebab Debate: Which Israeli Community Makes the Best?
Translated & summarized from i24NEWS by baba
A culinary exploration in Israel highlights the deep cultural significance of kebab, with Bulgarian, Persian, and Romanian communities each claiming their version as the best. Restaurants like "Monka" in Jaffa, "Renaissance" in Ramat Gan, and "Hani's Victory" showcase these distinct traditions, often tied to family history and memory. While the debate over the superior kebab continues, the dish serves as a powerful symbol of heritage and intergenerational connection, even amidst personal tragedy, as seen with one restaurateur who lost her brother on October 7th.
The story in 6 lines · by baba
- Kebab in Israel is a matter of tradition and identity for various communities, including Bulgarian, Persian, and Romanian.
- "Monka" restaurant in Jaffa, a Bulgarian institution, was revived by Michael Halfon to preserve family recipes.
- "Renaissance" in Ramat Gan offers Persian kebabs, a dream realized by Parvin and Michael Shamsian.
- Hani Heinik continues her family's Romanian kebab tradition at "Hani's Victory" in her backyard.
- The article explores how kebab connects Israelis to their heritage, family stories, and memories.
- One restaurateur's brother was killed on October 7th, adding a layer of profound personal loss to the family's culinary legacy.
A culinary investigation into Israel's diverse communities reveals that the humble kebab is more than just a grilled meat patty; it's a symbol of tradition and identity. Each group, including Romanians, Bulgarians, and Persians, fiercely defends their unique recipe as the superior one.
In Jaffa, the "Monka" restaurant, a nearly 80-year-old institution founded by brothers Michael and Solomon Halfon, represents the Bulgarian community's take on kebab. After closing last June, Michael Halfon, grandson of the original founder Miko, revived the establishment, aiming to replicate the authentic taste and family recipes. He described the initial challenges of satisfying long-time patrons and the meticulous process of refining the recipe to match his grandfather's and uncle's standards, calling the restaurant a "small memory preservation shop."
The Bulgarian kebab, according to Halfon, is characterized by its simplicity: meat, vegetables, and parsley, without extraneous additions. He also shared a poignant memory of his father giving him his day's earnings, emphasizing the deep family connection to the business.
Meanwhile, in Ramat Gan's Diamond Exchange district, "Renaissance" showcases the Persian version. Parvin Shamsian and her son Michael have managed the restaurant for three decades, building on the foundation laid by Parvin and her late husband Feyzolah about 40 years ago. Their recipe features meat, onions, spices, and a generous amount of saffron. Michael recalled his mother's condition for him to join the business: first learn to make kebab. For them, the restaurant is the realization of a dream that began with his father's dedication to hard work.
Parvin unequivocally states that the Persian kebab is the best, declaring "there is no competition." However, the Romanian tradition also has its champions.
Hani Heinik continues a family legacy at "Hani's Victory," a business that began in Ashkelon shortly after Israel's establishment. Her parents, Yonel and Gabriella, owned the legendary Romanian restaurant "The Victory," which operated for about thirty years. In 2019, Hani, with her partner Dafi, reopened the business in their backyard to preserve the tradition. Her Romanian kebab boasts strong flavors, featuring ample garlic, baking soda, mustard, and served with bread. Even her parents, initially hesitant, now admit her kebab surpasses their own.
Tragically, Hani's brother, Reuven, who co-managed the restaurant and shared the family recipe, was murdered on October 7th while tending to cattle at Kibbutz Kissufim. "We feel him in every bite, every second," she shared, highlighting the profound personal loss intertwined with the culinary heritage.
Ultimately, while a definitive winner in the kebab contest remains elusive, the article concludes that the kebab represents much more than just food. It serves as a vital link to tradition, a way to honor those who came before, and a means of passing family stories to future generations.