Israeli Traveler Recounts Near-Miss with Authorities in Saudi Arabia

An Israeli adventurer, Adam Jano, described a tense encounter with religious police in the Saudi Arabian city of Medina, one of Islam's holiest sites. While undergoing a search in the mosque's plaza, officers began to inspect his bag. Hidden in an inner pocket, his Israeli passport was nearly discovered. Jano recounted that the police asked if he was Muslim, and upon his denial, intensified their search. Fortunately, the pocket remained closed, and his passport was not found, narrowly avoiding potential complications in a country where Israeli nationality is prohibited.

Jano, a resident of the Israeli town of Kalil, has visited Saudi Arabia twice using a foreign passport. His travels have taken him beyond the capital, Riyadh, into remote desert areas and even near the Yemeni border. He described the scenic Red Sea coastal highway and noted the prevalence of traditional thobe garments worn by men and black attire by women. He also observed the high number of dry cleaners, attributing it to the constant need to wash white thobes.

He found the scarcity of tourists in Saudi Arabia to be a unique aspect of his trip, leading to more meaningful interactions with locals. Unlike in destinations with many tourists, his foreign appearance in Saudi Arabia attracted attention and curiosity, fostering connections. He shared an anecdote about Saudi women approaching him in a Riyadh cafe, inquiring about his origin and offering to pay for his coffee, reflecting the country's recent opening to the world.

Jano's journey also included visits to prominent tourist sites like AlUla, a region known for its Nabataean heritage, sandstone cliffs, and ancient oasis. He stayed in a luxury hotel there, noting the exceptional amenities but also the striking absence of other guests, making him feel like the sole occupant. He also experienced the striking Mirror House, a mirrored structure in the desert, and explored ancient Nabataean tombs, comparing them to those in Petra.

Beyond tourism, Jano pursued a personal mission to explore Jewish history in Saudi Arabia. He sought out "hidden Jews," describing discreet meetings where he exchanged items like prayer books and tefillin, which he brought as gifts. He visited a neglected Jewish cemetery in Al-Hofuf, where desert sands had covered the graves, and felt a sense of duty to pay respects. He also encountered a wealthy Saudi couple in Riyadh who identified as having a hidden Jewish identity, and he shared a significant moment giving them a Hebrew prayer book.