Tel Aviv Restaurant Sisters Face Betrayal, War, and Existential Doubts
Sisters Shirona and Shira'el Berger, owners of the acclaimed Tel Aviv restaurant OPA, faced a devastating betrayal by employees who embezzled funds, followed by the October 7th war. Their hopes for a Michelin star were overshadowed by these crises. The restaurant, celebrated for its innovative vegetable-based cuisine and zero-waste philosophy, now grapples with the challenges of operating in Israel's volatile environment, leading the sisters to consider leaving the country.
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- Sisters Shirona and Shira'el Berger of Tel Aviv's OPA restaurant discovered employee embezzlement and faced the October 7th war.
- The restaurant's potential Michelin star recognition was overshadowed by personal and national crises.
- OPA is known for its innovative vegetable-focused fine dining and zero-waste culinary philosophy.
- The sisters are disillusioned with Israel's instability and considering leaving the country.
- The restaurant's tasting menu is priced at 475 shekels, reflecting high labor and creative costs.
Sisters Shirona and Shira'el Berger, the forces behind the acclaimed Tel Aviv vegetable-focused restaurant OPA, have navigated a tumultuous period marked by personal betrayal, the outbreak of war, and the loss of a potential Michelin star. In late 2023, the sisters believed they were on the cusp of receiving a Michelin star, a recognition that would have elevated their unique culinary establishment on the international stage. However, their hopes were dashed when news of Michelin's presence in Tel Aviv emerged, followed by a devastating discovery.
In early October, during a vacation in Alsace, France, the sisters uncovered a significant embezzlement scheme orchestrated by long-term, trusted employees. This betrayal, described by Shira'el as a "stab in the back," shattered their trust and forced them to abandon their holiday to manage the crisis, including canceling a planned pop-up event. Their personal turmoil was compounded when the events of October 7th unfolded, casting a shadow of collective trauma over Israel.
Despite the immense personal and national challenges, the sisters channeled their energy into supporting soldiers and families of hostages by preparing food. OPA, known for its innovative approach to vegetables and fruits, transforms seasonal ingredients into elaborate tasting menus. The restaurant, which will celebrate its eighth anniversary in September, emphasizes a "zero waste" philosophy, utilizing every part of the plant to create unique sauces, oils, and ferments, some of which are sold from a pantry display.
The sisters have also voiced concerns about the future of fine dining in Israel, citing economic instability, political uncertainty, and the ongoing security situation. Shira'el expressed deep disillusionment, stating, "I know that if Bibi is elected, it will only be a matter of months until the wars start again, and I can't take it anymore." They contemplate leaving Israel if conditions do not improve, despite their deep love for the country and its potential.
OPA's culinary philosophy centers on exploring the inherent qualities of vegetables and fruits, rather than using them as meat substitutes. This approach, which has earned them international attention and a place on the 50 Best list, involves meticulous preparation and a deep understanding of seasonal produce, often sourced from local organic farms. The tasting menu, priced at 475 shekels per person, reflects the extensive labor and creative process involved, with the sisters arguing that the cost is justified by the unique experience and the high cost of labor in fine dining.