Surfing Culture in San Diego Offers Escape and Unity
תומצת מתוך Haaretz על ידי baba
A visiting professor in San Diego observes the unifying and therapeutic power of surfing culture, where social divides disappear in favor of a shared passion for the ocean. This lifestyle fosters a relaxed atmosphere and a deep connection with nature, contrasting with societal and political failures. The author also briefly mentions meeting Israeli surfing hopeful Anat Lilyor at a competition.
הידיעה ב-5 שורות · תקציר של baba
- Surfing in San Diego creates a classless society focused on the next wave.
- The surfing lifestyle promotes a relaxed, warm, and respectful atmosphere.
- The author believes the ocean offers healing and reduces negative emotions.
- Israeli surfer Anat Lilyor competed in a World Surf League event in California.
- The region's culture is deeply influenced by surfing, resisting digital dominance.
The author, a visiting professor in San Diego and a surfer for 30 years, describes the pervasive surfing culture in the region, stretching from Los Angeles to San Diego. Surfers from all walks of life, arriving in various vehicles or even sleeping on the beach, share a common passion that transcends social and economic divides. In the water, the focus is solely on the next wave, creating an egalitarian environment.
The lifestyle influenced by surfing is characterized by a relaxed, warm, respectful, and friendly atmosphere, impacting everything from culture to daily routines. The author, whose own surfing days are limited by knee injuries, reflects on his lifelong love for the sea, recalling dreams of surfing in Indonesia and the Maldives, and past winters spent surfing in Israel. He believes missing out on surfing means missing a profound connection with nature and oneself.
Reflecting on his youth, the author admits that skipping school to surf was his primary focus. The ocean's turbulent yet healing nature later became a central theme in his artistic work. He posits that proximity to the water and spending time in it can reduce anger, hatred, and frustration, fostering calmness, peace, and acceptance, contrasting this with the perceived failures of social and political models.
During a visit to a World Surf League competition in California, the author met Israeli surfing hopeful Anat Lilyor, who competed but narrowly lost her heat. Post-competition, Lilyor approached her competitor to offer congratulations. The author also observed a heartwarming fathers and children's heat.
The visual and sensory landscape of the area is dominated by surfing: surfboards displayed on walls, people scanning the horizon for swells, murals, and timeless fashion. The author notes that the digital world hasn't fully taken over, with colors reminiscent of the 1970s and a prevailing sense of salty sweetness. As evening approaches, surfers rush from work to catch a final wave before sunset.
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