Chef Yonatan Roshfeld Faces Criticism Over Disappointing Kosher Fine Dining at Maree in Netanya
Yonatan Roshfeld, a renowned Israeli chef known for his influential culinary career and TV appearances, recently took over as head chef at Maree, a kosher fine dining restaurant atop the Vert Lagoon Hotel in Netanya. Maree, which opened over four years ago under chef Aviv Moshe, is a large venue blending restaurant and nightlife elements, including DJs and fire dancers on select evenings. Despite high expectations, Roshfeld's tenure has sparked skepticism within the culinary community, especially given the challenges of maintaining excellence in kosher cuisine.
A recent review of Maree's menu highlighted significant shortcomings. The iconic tomato salad, a signature dish from Roshfeld's previous restaurant Herbert Samuel, was served with inconsistent quality tomatoes and lacked the sheep cheese component due to kosher restrictions. Other starters, such as the Bluefin tuna sashimi and chicken dim sum with kataifi pastry, were criticized for poor freshness and questionable creativity. Main dishes included a well-prepared Black Angus hamburger and foie gras on brioche, but the latter was overshadowed by an overly sweet apricot sauce.
The restaurant's pricing was described as steep, with a hamburger costing 148 shekels and other dishes similarly expensive, demanding exceptional quality that Maree failed to deliver. The atmosphere combines dining with club-like entertainment, which some found distracting. Service was friendly but not professional, and the overall experience did not justify the high cost. The reviewer expressed disappointment that Roshfeld, once a culinary pioneer, has not yet succeeded in imprinting his signature excellence on Maree's kosher kitchen.
If substantial improvements are not made, Maree risks being remembered as a regrettable chapter in Roshfeld's career. The review concluded that both the chef and diners deserve better, emphasizing the need for a dramatic overhaul from kitchen fundamentals to concept execution to meet the standards expected from a chef of Roshfeld's stature.
