Restaurant Review Slams Chef Eyal Shani's North Abraxas for Poor Value
A scathing review of Tel Aviv restaurant North Abraxas, part of chef Eyal Shani's culinary empire, has criticized its exorbitant prices and underwhelming food quality, marking a return to the establishment after a 13-year hiatus for the reviewer. The critic, who previously vowed not to return after a 2013 visit, found that despite Shani's undeniable talent, his expansion into a large restaurant group has diluted the quality and creativity previously associated with his ventures. The review highlights that while Shani and his partner Shachar Segal can deliver excellent results when they delegate to skilled professionals, as seen in another of their establishments, North Abraxas has suffered from declining attention and quality over the years.
The reviewer noted that the restaurant's menu, featuring creatively named dishes, is excessively expensive, with items like sea bass priced at 178 shekels and a pair of sausages at 119 shekels. The reviewer argued that for these prices, the food, which is largely quick-service style, should be exceptional. Dishes sampled included a mediocre gazpacho, a bland corn salad, a small calamari salad with hardly any calamari for 112 shekels, and four small pieces of dentex sashimi for 96 shekels, all deemed poor value for money. The only highlight was a Denver cut steak skewer, described as very good, but overshadowed by a bland accompaniment and small salad.
The overall dining experience was described as a collection of overpriced snacks rather than a cohesive meal, with the value for money being particularly egregious. The reviewer concluded that the restaurant's pricing is "chutzpah on steroids" for food that ranges from average to below average. While a 20% happy hour discount made the bill more bearable, the reviewer lamented that most patrons pay full price, deeming the 506 shekel bill for the limited and subpar food consumed as "delusional." The critic suggested Shani should focus on improving his local establishments rather than expanding his international presence.
