New Abu Ghosh Restaurant Zaytona Offers Unique Menu but Faces Early Challenges
In recent weeks, rumors have circulated about a new and interesting dining option in Abu Ghosh, a village near Jerusalem traditionally known for its standard hummus, fries, skewers, and salad offerings. Despite its popularity, Abu Ghosh has not been recognized for exceptional culinary experiences, often grouped with Ein Kerem and Givat Shaul as part of a "culinary Bermuda Triangle" due to the lack of standout eateries.
The new establishment, Zaytona, opened recently in the village center and is led by local women, Raida and her sisters, introducing a fresh concept to the area. Notably, the restaurant does not serve hummus, fries, or skewers, which marks a significant departure from local norms. Instead, it features a picturesque stone building with a Greek blue paint scheme and a central stone oven, focusing on rich breakfasts with cheeses and pastries, alongside a lunch menu of traditional Arab home-cooked dishes such as stews and clay pot meals.
However, upon visiting at lunchtime, the experience revealed a gap between concept and execution. Service was friendly but understaffed, leading to long waits and some unavailable dishes, including the musakhan and veal pochara, as the kitchen was still ramping up after weekend closures. The breakfast platter, priced at 79 shekels, included freshly baked flatbread, various cheeses, labneh with pickled eggplant, fried halloumi, olive oil, honey, jam, halva, and a simple two-egg omelet, which was somewhat broken and less refined than expected for the price.
The standout dishes were the cheese and za'atar rolls, praised for their crispy, flavorful dough, while the sambusak with minced meat felt industrial and less impressive. The fresh tabbouleh was well-executed but not extraordinary. For mains, only the siniyah kofta was available, a baked beef and lamb patty with tahini and charred vegetables, which suffered from excess liquid affecting its texture.
Overall, Zaytona shows promise as a charming and refreshing local option but remains in its early stages, needing to refine its kitchen and service to fulfill its potential and become a true culinary destination. The owners plan to continue improving, and further visits are anticipated to assess progress.
