Diwan in Pardes Hanna-Karkur is presented as an ambitious attempt to prove that Yemeni cuisine can be elevated into fine dining. The restaurant is led by chef Roy Dori, 30, formerly the chef at Rouge at Hotel Pereh in the Golan Heights and later at the French bistro Falet in Jaffa. His partner, Neta Eisenberg, handles hospitality and drinks. Dori describes the place as a modern Yemeni khamara, or Yemeni gastro-bar, but says the concept is serious about high-level cooking.
The meal began with dishes rooted in Yemeni tradition, especially a standout kubaneh, described as soft inside, browned outside, and packed with samneh. It was served with s’chug, k’um il fu, and yogurt with burnt zucchini. The reviewer also praised a trio of mookaskas, fried pastries topped with different fillings, including chard with feta cream and chili, labneh with cured fish in tomato glaze, shifka pepper and rashad, and another with feta cream, za’atar and honey.
Other dishes included siniya fish, cubes of fish baked in a large oven with warm tahini, roasted tomatoes and s’chug, and a sea-fish skewer served on lahoh with samneh, tathbila, and fenugreek foam. A “nudi” version, made of labneh dumplings with roasted cherry tomato butter and s’chug, was considered less successful. Dessert was zlabia, a rare Yemeni sweet pastry, with pear compote scented with cardamom.
The review calls Diwan a major surprise and says it is worth traveling to Pardes Hanna for. The writer hopes Dori stays longer than in his previous posts, noting that this time he owns the place and lives nearby, which could help him keep the standard high.
