Sali, in Haifa’s flea market in the lower city, has become a pilgrimage stop for food lovers since opening about a year and a half ago. The place is hard to classify, part cafe, part bakery, but the reviewer says it functions most like a restaurant, with bread playing a central role. Because it does not take reservations, the writer had previously been turned away several times before finally getting in on Saturday, and found the wait worthwhile.
The meal was served on the outdoor terrace overlooking the market, with a large, warm staff described as unusually diverse and attentive. The kitchen is led by chefs Tomer Rosenfeld and Yahel Abrams, both alumni of Jerusalem’s Mona under Moshiko Gamlieli. The first dishes were stracciatella with Maggi tomatoes, white strawberries from Tal Farm in Moshav Bizzaron, dried za’atar and Picual olive oil, alongside sesame bread, which the reviewer praised as a small masterpiece.
Zucchini fritters followed, made with green beans, dried and green onions, plenty of mint and hot green pepper, and served with yogurt, a small salad, spicy green salsa and country bread. The reviewer said they outshone even the famous sweet potato fritters at Orna and Ella. Two specials then showed that Sali is more than a cafe or bakery, a Thai pork belly and unripe mango salad with herbs, fish sauce, coconut milk and black raspberry, and mussels with chorizo in chicken stock and butter, plus lemongrass, basil and hot shatta.
There was no room left for desserts, but the meal ended with a Greek Assyrtiko and a German Riesling from importer Noam Yacobi, formerly of Recanati Winery. Abrams, Rosenfeld and their partner, Shdema Abrams-Rosenfeld, are said to take wine as seriously as bread and food, and plan to open a full restaurant in a few months in an old Arab house opposite Sali. The writer urges readers not to be discouraged by the line and to take bread home as well.
