Chef Erez Komarovsky Revives Iconic 'Lechem Erez' Restaurant for One Night
Erez Komarovsky, a pioneering Israeli chef known for his mastery of breads and for popularizing artisanal baking in Israel during the 1990s, led a special one-night revival of his legendary restaurant "Lechem Erez" in Herzliya. The event was part of San Pellegrino's Chef's Table project, which resurrected three nostalgic Israeli eateries. Komarovsky and his longtime collaborator Hanan meticulously recreated classic dishes from the original menu, relying on old photos, staff memories, and diner reviews to capture the authentic flavors and presentation.
The evening featured a sensory feast with rustic decor, dim lighting, and a long communal table filled with natural elements. Guests enjoyed a variety of rich, hearty dishes emblematic of 1990s Israeli cuisine, including sourdough breads wrapped with herbs, spice platters, a tomato salad with Meiri cheese, and a crispy salad with peaches and arugula. The highlight was a shrimp lasagna with béchamel sauce, a beloved but challenging dish to replicate exactly, which Komarovsky described as a "holy anxiety" due to its complexity and richness.
Other standout dishes included roasted eggplant with yogurt and pistachios, veal sweetbreads skewers, and a spicy, buttery grilled fish on a bed of corn salsa. The meal concluded with a nostalgic dessert of chocolate and plum cake in whiskey sauce accompanied by lightly sweetened whipped cream and an anise-scented pear compote. While many of the dishes are considered heavy and somewhat outdated by today's culinary standards, the event was a heartfelt homage to the bold, indulgent flavors that first inspired many Israelis to appreciate artisanal bread and rich, layered cooking.
Komarovsky reflected on how Israeli cuisine has evolved to become lighter and more refined, but emphasized the enduring emotional connection and satisfaction that the unapologetically rich 1990s dishes still provide. The evening served as both a celebration and a reminder of the culinary roots that shaped modern Israeli food culture.
