Russian Climber Left Alone at 7,900 Meters Loses Fingers After Nepal Guide Abandons Him
Russian climber Konstantin Smirnov reached the summit of Makalu, the world's fifth-highest peak at 8,463 meters, but his descent turned into a life-threatening ordeal. Around 18:30 to 19:00 at approximately 7,900 meters, Smirnov claims his Nepalese guide, Bhajuram Gurung, abandoned him and descended alone to the base camp at 7,500 meters by 21:00, leaving Smirnov to battle freezing conditions alone through the night.
Smirnov endured 30 hours without water and suffered severe altitude sickness at 7,720 meters, losing consciousness and one glove, exposing his left hand to extreme cold. The resulting frostbite was so severe that after hospitalization, doctors amputated all the fingers on his left hand.
Having paid $14,600 to the trekking company Makalu Adventure, Smirnov has filed complaints against both the guide and the company with Kathmandu's consumer court and local police. He accuses company owner Mohan Lamsal of deliberately delaying rescue efforts and misleading Smirnov's wife about his safety despite knowing the danger he was in.
Makalu Adventure denies all allegations. Lamsal claims Smirnov refused to descend with the guide due to his deteriorating health and that rescue delays were caused solely by adverse weather. The company asserts it deployed all available resources, including a helicopter, to save Smirnov and accuses him of attempting to damage Nepal's climbing industry.
Nepal's judicial system must now determine whether this was a case of negligent abandonment at a critical altitude or an inherent risk of high-altitude mountaineering.
