We Thought Modi'in Was Just a Commuter Town. We Were Very Wrong
"Art Between the Cypress Trees" exhibition at Givat HaBroshim, Modi'in / Photo: Ziv Reinstein
There are cities in Israel that are meant to be passed through. Modi'in, at least in the eyes of most Israelis, is one of them, and they know it from the signs on Route 443. Stop for coffee on the way to Jerusalem, fill up on the way to Tel Aviv, maybe end with a visit to the mall, but not really stop there, even though the city's first hotel has recently opened. But anyone willing to slow down for a moment will discover a city hiding quite a few surprises, archaeological hills, art in the heart of nature, unusual tours, local cuisine and even its own "Stonehenge."
The city, designed by architect Moshe Safdie, was built around a fairly revolutionary idea by Israeli standards, the valleys were meant to be green, public and communal, while the construction would climb the hills and every building would have a balcony, with roundabouts and no sharp street corners. The result is a city in which more than half the area is devoted to open spaces, parks and green areas. Another advantage for the city with the longest official name in the country, Modi'in-Maccabim-Re'ut, is that it sits exactly halfway between Israel's two largest metropolitan areas and enjoys a rare benefit, it is close to everyone, but far from the traffic jams. Half an hour from Tel Aviv, half an hour from Jerusalem, a direct train, and around it no fewer than 55,000 dunams of green space. In other words, everything the Israeli center lost on its way to concrete.
Start with coffee, a croissant and Titura Hill
The first thing to know about Modi'in is that its heart is not in the mall, but דווקא in the small neighborhood centers. For example, in "Malibu Center," a neighborhood commercial center that looks almost sleepy from the outside, there is a hidden gem, "HaLechem veHaHamatzah" (The Bread and Butter), a bakery that has become a pilgrimage site for carb lovers over the past year and a half. Behind the place are Moshe and Nadir. Moshe came to baking from the very bottom, from cleaning jobs in a bakery, through bread studies and 16 years of professional work in the field, to opening his own business.
"What impressed us was Titura Hill overlooking it, and a 'dead' commercial center, and on Fridays the public garden is full of people who buy things and take them to eat in the shade," says Moshe, aka Moshiko. The result is impressive, a display case packed with pastries based on croissant dough, both sweet and savory. "The crowd favorites are the pastry with pastry cream and strawberries, the pistachio version, and a savory pastry with roasted tomato spread, Kalamata olives and Bulgarian cheese," Moshe explains. Honestly, I have not eaten things this tasty and unusual in a long time, and this is coming from a hard-core carb lover. The prices are also relatively reasonable in an era when a good pastry is already approaching the price of a meal, 13 to 32 shekels per pastry, about 22 shekels for a loaf of bread, sandwiches for 32 shekels and salads around 38 shekels.
But the real secret is the location. A few steps away is a shaded public garden that fills with residents every Friday, coffee and pastry in hand, and above it rises Titura Hill.
HaLechem veHaHamatzah, Malibu Center, Modi'in, Sun.-Thu. 07:00-20:00, Fri. 06:30-14:30
Malibu Center turned into a place where the public garden is full of people. Moshe and Nadir at the "HaLechem veHaHamatzah" bakery / Ziv Reinstein
Yummy! Sweet and savory, everything we tasted was amazing / Ziv Reinstein
A display case packed with pastries based on croissant dough, sweet and savory alike / Ziv Reinstein
A gallery without walls
Titura Hill is probably the city's most important place in terms of nature, heritage and landscape. It is a site covering about 600 dunams, with archaeological findings thousands of years old, along with hiking trails and impressive panoramic viewpoints. From the summit, it is easy to understand why this is where they chose to build a new city. On one side is Ben Shemen Forest, on the other is the Shephelah, and on clear days even Jerusalem peeks over the horizon. This is not just another urban hill. It is a place that tells the story of the region through about 6,000 years of settlement.
But the coolest story in the city unfolds on another hill, Givat HaBroshim, which rises to 289 meters above sea level and stands out from afar because of its cypress trees. About a year ago, an environmental art exhibition opened here with more than 50 artists and more than 50 works integrated into the landscape. It was curated by photographer Adi Adar and producer Adva Shavit, a city resident and one of the key drivers of tourism development there. The exhibition deals with the human dimension and expresses signs of life inspired by the place, drawn from our imagination and thoughts. For example, a sculpture by Talia Sharon called "Totem, Israeli Prickly Pear," or a chair made entirely of corks, as well as a colorful mosaic created by special education students, which manages to steal the show even without special effects.
As we know, the Israeli sun spares no one, not even works of art, and some of the pieces have already been removed or are awaiting restoration. But you can still find several intriguing works here, and above all, magnificent nature.
The cypress hill, this is how you get there
A chair made of corks. One of the sculptures in the "Art Between the Cypress Trees" exhibition, Givat HaBroshim / Ziv Reinstein
One of the sculptures in the exhibition / Ziv Reinstein
"Totem, Israeli Prickly Pear" / Ziv Reinstein
More than 50 artists and more than 50 works integrated into the landscape / Ziv Reinstein
The former Shin Bet officer who became a wood artist
One of the more interesting initiatives in the city is "Hosts in Homes," a network of about 40 residents who open their homes and their world to visitors, guided and advised by Tal Raz and Vered Atzmon, tourism experts who train local hosts to tell their own stories. One of the most intriguing figures is probably Gabi Shay, a retired Shin Bet officer who became a wood artist.
"I am a virgin artist," he likes to define himself. Gabi did not start out as a young carpenter, but quite the opposite, after years as a dancer and painter, he learned carpentry from his daughter, the carpenter Hila, and discovered art only during the coronavirus pandemic. On a tour of his home, you meet this charming man and his many works spread throughout the house. For example, wooden creations that also touch on his experiences in the secret service, alongside works inspired by biblical stories, such as "Joseph's Dream" and others. During the visit, he also demonstrates the creative process.
Gabi Shay, 30 shekels per person, minimum 30 people. Creative workshop, 600 shekels per couple for two hours. 054-6883357
The former Shin Bet officer who became a wood artist. Gabi Shay / Ziv Reinstein
A guitar with an interesting addition inside / Ziv Reinstein
"I am a virgin artist," Gabi in the studio at his home / Ziv Reinstein
He discovered art only during the coronavirus pandemic. One of Gabi's works / Ziv Reinstein
Modi'in's Stonehenge
If there is someone who fell in love with the city again during the coronavirus pandemic, it is photographer Yuval Shemesh. "I went out on walks around the city with my dog Macron and discovered special places, including a path that leads to a stone installation that locals call Stonehenge," he says. As part of the "Jane's Walk" initiative, he led city residents to places they did not know, and from that a special tour was born, combined with phototherapy, in which he asks participants to photograph what they see and together they decode and share the feelings that photography conveys in each and every one of us.
On the small-group tours he leads, 15 to 20 people, 50 shekels per person, he passes through narrow alleys that have become streets commemorating city soldiers who fell in battle and are located right on the street where they lived. For example, a garden in memory of Noam Marciano, a city native who was killed in the events of October 7. Among the stops is "Modi'in's Stonehenge," a local stone installation that has become a small urban legend, and also Grasshopper Park, where there is a giant grasshopper sculpture made from recycled materials. Other points you will see on the walking tour are an exercise park for adults and Grandpa Moti's chair garden, which almost no longer exists because the chairs were donated for displays for the hostages.
"It's a different angle for getting to know the city, one you won't find anywhere else," Yuval explains. In winter, the tour also reaches the "hidden lake," a seasonal winter puddle that turns into a surprising nature corner in the heart of the city.
Walking tour with Yuval: 050-9419933.
A local stone installation that became a small urban legend. Modi'in's Stonehenge / Ziv Reinstein
"A different angle for getting to know the city, one you won't find anywhere else" / Ziv Reinstein
Hasmoneans, coins and archaeological gold
Anyone looking for some history should go to Ashun Hill. During archaeological excavations by Dr. Avraham Tendler in 2015, conducted there before the construction of the Morasha neighborhood, findings from the Hellenistic and Roman periods were uncovered, including a Hasmonean farmstead with agricultural installations and a hoard of shekels and half-shekels minted in Tyre in 126 to 135 BCE, now held at the Hasmonean Museum.
The farmstead, like the entire hill with its hiking trails, including routes suitable for strollers, offers wonderful seasonal blooms as well as plots of herbs planted there, such as lemon geranium, sage and others. The hill also offers wonderful views in all four directions, with benches and shaded pergolas. Coming by car? There is a nearby underground parking lot, the first two hours are free.
Ashun Hill, this is how you get there
Wonderful seasonal blooms and plots of herbs planted there. Ashun Hill / Ziv Reinstein
The hill has hiking trails, including ones suitable for strollers, and views in all four directions / Ziv Reinstein
The Hasmonean farmstead uncovered on Ashun Hill, with agricultural installations / Ziv Reinstein
The tastiest reason to come to Modi'in
We started with food and we'll end with food. In recent years, Modi'in has been trying to shed its image as a "dormitory town," and the local restaurants are part of that revolution. One of the most prominent is "HaTe'enah," the Italian restaurant of Il Cohen, a photographer who became a food person. Although calling it a "pizzeria" would be an insult to the very special and delicious pizzas we ate there. And immediately we will reveal Il's secret.
After closing a restaurant in Mishmar Ayalon, Il reopened the place in Modi'in with a broader menu, an emphasis on ingredients from local farmers, and a significantly upgraded dough: "It's dough with different rests and a different cooling power," Il says. "It is baked in an electric oven that is not too hot like fire, and yet the dough is crispy."
You can find pizzas there with white corn, green garlic and organic leaves, but the real star is the simple marinara stracciatella, the kind that cannot hide behind cheeses or toppings and includes tomato sauce, garlic, a bit of chili, Parmesan, basil and lemon zest.
HaTe'enah, kosher without certification. The local restaurants are part of the revolution. HaTe'enah / Ziv Reinstein
They were simply wow. Marinara stracciatella, right, and corn pizza / Ziv Reinstein
We liked the gnocchi with yogurt foam, spicy oil and lemon zest less / Ziv Reinstein
In Israel, where many cities compete for travelers' attention, Modi'in chose a different path. Without a giant attraction or a famous promenade, it builds its visitor experience through local stories, the people behind them and the connection between nature and the city. It is precisely this combination, community initiatives, hidden corners and local pride, that makes a visit there so interesting. Anyone willing to get off Route 443 for a moment may discover that one of the most pleasant tourist surprises in central Israel is דווקא hidden in the place everyone thinks they already know.
