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How Hamburgers Became Israel’s Big Business

By לירן שבתאי
Translated & summarized from N12 by baba
The story · English

What was once a cheap fast-food staple has become one of Israel’s most lucrative and beloved dishes, with annual restaurant revenue in the billions of shekels and menu prices often topping 90 shekels. The article traces the burger’s rise through iconic spots in Tel Aviv, a historic roadside diner near Jerusalem, and a northern eatery that relocated during the war.

GDB is now described as the most famous hamburger in Israel, even though it refuses to deliver. Its two Tel Aviv branches serve about 2,500 people a day, and the brand’s signature bun with a black garlic dome helped turn it into a phenomenon. The burger itself is made from 14 different cuts, coarsely ground and dry-aged for 21 days, like a premium steak.

That popularity translated into a major deal, when the Nono Mimi group bought 50 percent of the brand for 65 million shekels. Co-owner Ooz Selama said, “We sold cheaply, we did not want to overdo it,” and said the sale surprised them because the timing was much faster than expected. Accountant Tiko Franco argued the price made sense because burgers make up 12.5 percent of Israel’s food turnover, a market worth about 2.5 billion shekels a year.

The boom is not without pressure. Dor Yaakov, owner of The Alley, moved his burger business from Metula to Tel Aviv after the war began on October 7, 2023, then found 132 burger places near his Yehuda Halevi Street branch and decided the market was too crowded and unstable. He said, “I said enough, I do not have the strength for this headache anymore, it is hard. That is why I am going back to Metula.” He added that customers still come north despite interceptions and sirens, and that the shelter nearby makes them feel relatively safe.

Veteran chain Agadir, which marks 30 years, is also adapting with premium items such as a Wagyu-based “Yakuza” burger with mizuna leaves and Japanese vinaigrette. Owner Eitan Trebelus said meat costs have soared since he started, when he paid a third of today’s price, and noted that even a shawarma served standing up now costs 70 shekels. At Elvis, the longtime roadside restaurant on the way to Jerusalem, the same burger recipe has been served since 1974, and owner Noam Yuli said the secret recipe has been kept for more than 40 years, especially popular with U.S. Marines training in Israel.

Read the original at N12
Full coverage · 2 outlets
100% centerFirst: N12 · Jun 21

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