Dries Van Noten Exhibition in Venice Explores Beauty as Protest
Despite heavy August rain in Venice, dozens gathered for the opening of "The Only True Protest Is Beauty," a new exhibition at the Fondazione Dries Van Noten. The show, curated by Dries Van Noten and Geert Bruelot and running until October 4, uses the concept of beauty as a vehicle for provocation, contemplation, and change. The exhibition's title is inspired by American singer and activist Phil Ochs.
Rather than focusing on decorative beauty, the exhibition posits beauty as a stance and a form of protest, offering a critical perspective on reality by highlighting underlying ugliness. Featured prominently is the work of young Palestinian designer Ayham Hassan, who blends traditional Palestinian embroidery with contemporary materials and monumental silhouettes, drawing parallels with designers like Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons. Hassan, who splits his time between Ramallah and London, uses fashion to explore themes of identity, memory, and belonging.
The exhibition is housed in the historic 15th-century Palazzo Pisani Moretta, with Van Noten integrating the palace's opulent architecture, including its frescoes and ornate ceilings, into the display. This approach creates a dialogue between the historical setting and the contemporary artworks, such as Stephen Shore's photographs displayed alongside evening gowns by Comme des Garçons and Christian Lacroix. The works are not arranged conventionally but are presented as integral parts of the palace itself.
Notable pieces include Christian Lacroix's richly textured dresses, which highlight his legacy in fashion, and a velvet jacket adorned with a jeweled cross, previously worn by supermodel Michaela Bercu on the November 1988 cover of American Vogue, Anna Wintour's first issue as editor. The exhibition also showcases a dialogue between the palace's antique glass collection and contemporary works by artists like Alexander Kirkby and Ritsue Mishima, as well as ceramic pieces by Kaori Kurihara.
Dries Van Noten, a key figure of the "Antwerp Six," announced his retirement as creative director of his eponymous fashion house in 2024 after nearly 40 years. This exhibition marks a new chapter for him, shifting from fashion designer to art patron, inviting artists to present their perspectives on the world.
